Hope Islands onwards

Hope Islands (3rd June)

 

A lovely sail up with full main and poled out headsail - about 30 miles. Both Tintin and us were lucky  enough to get a national park mooring (ok - so I take back some of the negative comments about government departments). Just as we arrived, the wind increased to 30+kts but we were nice and comfortable on our mooring behind the reef with little or no movement. A bonus for a good nights sleep. The sun was shining so we just had to go ashore for a walk around the island.

Interesting, there are crocodile warnings on the National Park sign, even though we are some 20miles off the coast.

                                    

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                                         Kevin and Jacqui, Pete and myself on Hope Island

 

It didn't take long to walk around the island - about 20 minutes duration. Schools of bait fish were nearly a meter deep completely surrounding the island, and every few minutes hundreds would jump out of the water being chased by something ....... big!

                                        

 

                                               

We also found quite a bit of flotsam and jetsam and lots of left thongs on our walk. Pete tells me that the Southern Hemisphere collects the left ones and the northern hemisphere collects all the rights ones, not sure if I believe him. Whilst walking round the island we came across an abandoned TV.........hopefully we may get some reception so we can watch State of Origin and watch Qld beat NSW!! (At the time of writing the blog..Qld are one game down...still 2 games to go to make it 8 in a row.....watch out John!!

 

                                  

                                           We found the TV but the reception was poor !

 

 

We found Cuttlefish on the beach the size of which I have never seen before. Hmm .......... should try some squidding. Unfortunately it is national marine park so the squid are safe.

 

                                  

  If only we had a budgie at home ...........

 

It's off in  morning heading where the wind takes us - maybe Cape Bedford, Cape Flattery or even Lizard Island.

 

 

Lizard Island (4th -8th June)

 

A very fast sail saw us get all the way up to Lizard Island arriving mid afternoon.  The winds reached 40+kts at times and with a double reef and half a headsail out, we averaged 7.7kts for  the 60 mile trip - not bad for an old girl. We surfed down some rather big waves at 12kts and Tintin was right there with us - up and down, up and down. It was an exhausting day and we were tired by the time we had anchored at Lizard Island. Most cruisers heading north would make this one of their stops and we counted at least 20 of us in the bay.

We were so tired, we even had to give 'sundowners" a miss but we have a few nights here to catch up with that. Just as we were tidying everything away from the sail, a tender from the next door boat came over to say hello. Pete recognised one of the passengers as someone he had crewed with years before delivering a boat from Melbourne to Hamilton Island - it is a small world some times. They are also on the rally with us so will be fun catching up later. Half of the boats headed off the next morning but we were happy to stay a couple of days to enjoy the island, the warm water and the snorkelling.

Next day we took the tender across to the small resort to see if by chance they had a bar that welcomed yachties, as it is game one of State of Origin. But alas, their staff bar which  did allow visitors  was not open due to the minimal number of staff employed at present. So we had to make do with text messages from our dear friend John in Sydney every time someone scored...........too many by NSW! Not sure if this year will make it 8 in a row.

The afternoon saw us hiking up the path to the top of the mountain that overlooks the bay. What a breathtaking view, and with being low tide it showed the reefs very clearly. The most beautiful turquoise water that you expect to see in this part of the coast, and so clear. It was a good hike up and back and ready for a swim afterwards. The rain started mid afternoon so sundowners was cancelled. Oh well, there is always tomorrow.

 

 

                                                                         

 

                                               What spectacular views from the top.

Next day saw us walk across to the lagoon on the other side of the island, via the airstrip. Again, pristine white sandy beach with aqua and turquoise water.

                                        

 

                                               Us at the lagoon on the far side of Lizard Island

 

                                       

 

                                                   Pete at some amazing rock formations

 

                                           

    

                                               We found Wilson on the sand & had to take his photo

 

Back to the bay and an afternoon of snorkelling. Fantastic fish life, loads of giant clams, brilliant blue starfish and no sharks or jellies. We made it to sundowners that evening and met quite a few other rally participants. Nice to watch the sun set on a perfect day with a glass of bubbles and lots of chatting.

Snorkelling was on the agenda again today and we were heading off in tenders with Tintin, Tropical Soul and Calypso to a nearby bay. Some parts were good, others not so good but still very enjoyable. Our last sundowners tonight as we are off in the morning.

 

Lizard to Flinders Island

 

Off early with the intent of making Ninian Bay. Strong winds had us making very good time so opted to push on to Bathurst Bay around Cape Melville. The landscaps at the Cape is spectacular with piles and piles of massive granite boulders (the size of a house) randomly strewn along the waters edge. Some of the piles made hills on their own.

 

 

 

It had been a great sail ........ until we reached the cape itself. The wind which had been constantly 20 - 25kts suddenly increased 35 - 40kts. Thankfully we had just furled the headsail prior and only had the doubled reefed main to contend with. Bathurst Bay is very shallow and shoals to about 1 mile off shore. With the wind so strong, we had to get as close to the beach as possible to get out of the very short steep waves. In fact, we were only doing 3kts into the wind closing the shore and had lashes of spray converting the entire boat. Coupled with the wind howling in the rigging, the main sail flapping, drenched at the helm, you could forgive us for thinking we had been transported to e North Sea. This wasn't in the brochure ! Eventually, safely anchored in 3 meters of water, we lay out 60 meters of chain. We were determined we were NOT going to drag.  The wind howled incessantly throughout the night and little sleep was had. 

 

 

Next morning, we contacted another boat that had just left Flinders Island who informed us that their anchorage there last night was quite good. So it is only a short hop of 18miles today to Stokes Bay (all down wind) and hopefully a better nights sleep. 

Recommendation to other travellers up the coast - don't stop at Bathurst Bay !

Winter has arrived - 1st June and the butter still has not melted

As we are getting further north, we are seeing other boats that are on the rally out of Darwin with us. Leaving Cairns 1st June was a small flotilla of boats heading for the day sail to the Low Isles - just off Port Douglas.
The  trip here was one of the best sails to date with a steady 20kts pushing us all the way. Low Isles are probably the last chance to snorkel before Lizard Island then Indonesia so we have opted to stay for 2 nights. They are classified as a Commonwealth Island - the size of a gnats ass and they have 2 caretakers living there ....! Not sure what they do apart from remind us of all the new rules and regulations eg. cannot step foot on the island from dusk to dawn - what a crock! And yes they did have a 2 metre one living here for 3 months over Summer. Once sighted, they do erect a sign to be aware of crocodiles. That coupled with the Lemon sharks circling the boat when we arrived will make for a very quick swim and snorkel. Day visitors are still arriving, though coming from Port Douglas, the boats are up market - 60' sailing catamarans worth millions.

                                                  Low Isle where a full time caretaker lives

                                                   The new luxurious way to get to see the reef


Next stop will be The Hope Islands, about 40nm, then shelter behind one of the Capes and then onto Lizard island. Not sure what internet will be available, so may be the last for a while.

North until the butter melts

Thurs 23 May - Up to Dunk Island.
 It was quite depressing to see the resort still mostly in ruins from cyclone Yasi Nov 2011, however the new jetty is almost complete - the first important step to reconstruction. Tide was way out and the beach and reef was not very inviting. Looking like that, you would wonder why anyone would come here for a holiday.

                                                   
                                                    Looking from Dunk back to  the mainland

                                                     Resort rooms missing their roofing

                                                      Hardly a room escaped the damage

The following afternoon saw us arrive at Fitzroy Island. Nice looking little resort, nice beach and very deep water outside the fringing reef. We arrived just as the wind was getting up to 30+kts and there wasn't much room left to drop anchor - obviously a popular anchorage. With the strong tidal current against the wind bullets, even monohulls were moving in opposite directions. With all the boats swinging every which way and as we were the last one to drop anchor, we upped and moved, this time on the other side of Tintin. Darkness, more tide, more wind, more swinging, Tintin now too close for comfort, we upped yet again! Third time lucky they say, however one of the worst nights for rolling and tugging at anchor so far on the trip. Next morning 0600 we had enough. Up anchor and a short 12 miles into Cairns. That short trip had winds of 40+kts, with a headsail out the size of a handkerchief we managed 8+ knots of boat speed.

Cairns - A week in Cairns and we anchored at the side of the main channel just opposite Marlin Marina. Tintin opted to go further up the channel and anchored - where we affectionately termed Swampville. You could almost hear the duelling banjos! or was that Jacki on her Ukulele. A week was spent here relaxing, doing odd jobs on board, provisioning for the trip to Darwin which necessitated some long walks through town to reach Whitworths. A big thanks to Deb and Brad Parker (ex Redland Bay) for the use of their car for our big Woolies shop and lovely to catch up with friends. We made use of the public pool on the waterfront for swims, along with teeming numbers of backpackers from every nation. We have both travelled reasonably far and wide however couldn't pick a lot of the languages.
Now to the point of the blog heading - North until the butter melts.
We have had rain, clouds, more rain, more cloud, more rainy days, strong winds since arriving in the tropics, however the temperatures have been relatively cool and the butter has not melted - yet! We are looking forward to when this event occurs and we can get rid of the blanket on the bed.

After the Whitsundays

Our day of leaving Airlie Beach started with Jacki and I spending a couple of hours walking around the markets full of local produce, craft and some very interesting people. Watched a sand sculptor create an amazing dragon, hours and hours of work all to be washed away with a down pour of rain at lunchtime.
A good wind took us across towards Hayman Island, where we decided to take a mooring at nearby Langford Beach for the evening. Another rolly night, getting quite used to them by now.
Next morning we said goodbye to Tintin and we were heading west back towards the mainland to anchor at Bona Bay inside Gloucester Island. In through a fairly narrow passage to an idyllic spot. The mountains of the island were the backdrop to the little anchorage with a lovely stretch of beach - and it was so calm. We could sense a good nights sleep coming up.

Bona Bay on Gloucester Island

Next morning we felt great, sleeping soundly though the night. Decided to head off around lunchtime and do an overnight sail through to Townsville. Up past Cape Upstart, Abbott Point with the bulk carriers lying at anchor waiting for their turn to fill with coal,

past Cape Bowling Green, Cape Cleveland and arriving into Townsville just after sunrise. We had booked to take a berth at Breakwater Marina for a night, so into our spot then blissful sleep for a couple of hours.
Townsville waterfront is quite lovely with beautiful old colonial buildings overlooking the Gardens of Remembrance to those who served. The days are quite warm but the evenings are balmy. We will remember Townsville for very friendly people and wonderful gelati.

Off to Magnetic Island to meet up with Tintin again. This was my first visit to the island and I really enjoyed it. A shark netted pool on the beach for those who want to swim but that does not guarantee against stinger bite, so we didn't take the risk. A lovely long beach to walk along looking for shells, along with cafes, pub and small supermarket. Took a bus ride across the top to Nelly Beach on the other side, not much there but a lovely view from the top. Second night there we went ashore for an early bar-b-q on the foreshore and watched the sun go down. All in all a lovely few days there.

Next morning it was off again with Orpheus Island our destination for the day. The winds were benign so it was a motor/sail again. We had a line out trawling and had nothing biting all day, then just as we were about to bring it in and head in to anchor, it went off with a huge zzzzzzzz. Pete was put to the test, the old man and the sea. After about 30 mins of struggle, this one didn't get away and the proof is in the picture.

After filleting and washing down all the blood from the boat, we gave half a fillet to Tintin(about 2kgs) and joined them to supp on some very fresh sashimi, soy and wasabi. Our dinner that evening was tuna steaks done on the bar-b-q and they were delicious. The next evening was Thai Yellow Fish Curry, that was good also. Will look for a recipe for Thai Fish cakes next...seems when you catch a big one you will be eating it for days!
The anchorage at Orpheus Island was very pleasant, calm with no swell. Good coral could be seen at low tide off the beach and we went ashore fore a walk to the top of the mountain - what a view !

A short sail the following morning across to Lucinda and the entry to Hinchenbrook Channel. The island itself was shrouded in cloud as we approached, as it often is. It seemed as if we were entering Mordor from Lord of the Rings - ominous clouds and dark hills..

 By the time we passed the length of the sugar loading terminal. 5.8 ks long which dips 2 metres to follow the earth's curvature, the sun was breaking through the cloud and we were able to appreciate the area in it's full spectacular beauty. We are now anchored about 1/3 the way up, there is no sound, it is so quiet - just the odd noise of a fish jumping.

After a couple of relaxing days in the Keppels, it was time to hit the high seas and head north in convoy with Tintin. The next stop was Port Clinton were we stayed for 2 nights, a wide expanse of waterways and good holding. Fairly strong winds kept us swinging a bit on our anchor, of for a sound nights sleep.

 

Tintin anchored in Port Clinton - a huge expanse of water.

From there we headed to the Percy Islands stopping off overnight at South Percy for another 'swell' evening. Is there nowhere to have a still nights sleep? Off bright and breezy the next morning to Digby Island.

 It was a gentle motor all the way with no wind to be had. How can it from gale force to nothing so quickly. Getting in there at lunch time, it was BLT's for lunch then ashore for a swim and walk along the beach. What a lovely spot with just our 2 boats the only ones there.

With strong winds yet again the next morning, it was up with the sails and north to Scawfell Island. 25knt winds gave us a great sail up there but that was just the start of the winds. They increased throughout the evening to 30knts and were coming through the bay in which we were anchored in bullets. Very little sleep that night, very rolly again but we are almost  getting used to that. Off early the following morning with no abating of the winds, it was a shorter but just as fast sail north anchoring in the shelter of Thomas Island for the evening. We had stayed there on a previous trip and had fond memories of the island, with turtles popping up around us and were keen to get back there again. It was just as lovely but not as calm as we had had previously. The winds were now constant 24/7 so it was just for the evening as we were keen to push through to Airlie Beach.
Thomas Island is the start of the Whitsundays so we headed off in the morning passing all the resorts - Daydream, Long Island, South Molle .
Coasting up through Whitsunday passage with strong current going with us, we made good time into Airlie Beach, though rain squalls were intermittent with sunshine, it was a real mix of weather.

 

Aaah Queensland..."perfect one day...Bucketing the next"

 We anchored in the bay amongst the moorings and decided to have dinner ashore at the yacht club. How good it felt to get 'dressed up' for a night on the town.
Back to civilisation with supermarkets, laundromats and cafes. A lovely day spent getting washing up to date, basic provisions bought and sharing a real latte - loved every minute of it. The afternoon was lazing around the public pool, swimming and reading books. Nice to have our feet on terra firma again. Tomorrow we will go into the marina to refuel and top up water tanks, last of the provisioning and then it's off again wherever the wind takes us.

Meeting up with Tintin

After doing a last minute trip to Woolies for provisions, we left Keppel Bay marina and made our way to Keppel Island. Kittani went well - everything seems to be ok once again.
Amongst quite a few boats moored safely on the northern side of the island was Tintin, so good to see her again. After anchoring next to them, Jacky and Kevin arrived over to give us the run down on the island, time of sundowners and to let us know of a bar-b-q on the beach that evening around a campfire and a feed of Spanish Mackeral donated by another boat. How quickly and easily one fits into 'island life' around  here. So 5.00pm saw about 8 tenders descend on the beach armed with cooly bags and a salad to share. On arrival to the campfire, we were handed a green coconut which Denis had machetied open  and we drank the juice - welcome to Keppel Island. Pop went the champagne cork and we toasted being back together with friends again. Then sun was starting its descent and gave us a magical setting for our first night back on the seas. A delicious meal of fish and salads, with potato and sweet potato cooked in the coals - what a feed.
 Lovely to sit and chat with other sailors, hearing of places they had been and ones we are still to get to. Such an interesting group of people. With 3 guitars playing in the background, it made it a wonderful evening to remember and a zillion stars out on such a clear night. A mass exit of tenders back to their boats around 8.30pm and off to bed.
 The bay lived up to its reputation of being notoriously rolly but the locals say you get used to it after a while. We will see. Looking forward to some fresh coconut meat for breakfast.

                                               This is what it is all about ............

Learning to weave a "gwashoppa!"

 

Peter fishing for mangrove jack and Kevin fishing for mangroves!!

 

 

A perfect setting for a bar..unfortunately...closed!

Most of the infrastructure on the island is still closed from the cyclone earlier in the year.

 

Keppel update

The sump is back on, after some minor difficulties with the connection, we were able to slowly lower the beast back into place and it is so good not to see that engine dangling on chains. With an extra pair of hands, all the parts are being reconnected and Kittani is starting to look like herself again. It is a race against time as we are getting Chris back on a plane this evening. We just could not have managed the job without him, it would have taken us weeks, not days. We owe him big time. The inside of the boat looks like a bomb site but I am sure after a day of sorting and cleaning, we will be back to normal.
We had booked the marina for a week expecting the job to take that long - parts from Germany, getting trades people etc - so will enjoy a few days of rest.....yeah right..still more jobs to do.
Jacqui and Kevin arrived at Keppel Island yesterday so we will meet up with them on Monday