Danga Bay Marina - Johor Bahru

Danga Bay Marina had been our home for the past 4 weeks and that time was fast coming to an end. The marina itself, whilst lacking in amenities was very centrally located for restaurants, shopping, etc. and the time spent there went relatively quickly being broken with small trips away both to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. The first few days in the marina were spent just unwinding as we felt we had been on the go for so long. Then there was the cleaning of everything inside and out and taking inventory of what we had used and what we needed. Buses departed from right out front and a 50 cent fare would get you most places. There were good choices of supermarkets - Giant, Cold Storage and the Kip markets. We found great eateries within walking distance of the marina and it was cheaper to eat out than cook on board. We caught up with our friends from Gemini who had already been here for a couple of weeks, though Robyn had headed home to Oz for a spell. The days soon started to fly bye, one week rolling into the next. The Sail Malaysia rally had organised a day tour of the local area taking in Puteri Marina and development and some very opulent government buildings which looked more like 5 star hotels. We then visited the southern most tip of Malaysia (also of mainland Asia) and it's a long way from Sydney - 6232 kms. The tour was all in the comfort of an nice new air conditioned coach - thank goodness. The heat seems to intensify each day and the build up to the afternoon thunderstorms is palatable. We have finally set up our water catchment from the boat covers so now can funnel the rain water direct into our tanks.


                                  
                                 
                                                  Opulent government buildings hardly occupied

                                 




                                              To think we sailed all this distance  ......... :-)


7th November was yet another birthday for Pete, and not wanting to spend it sitting in the marina, we decided to head to Kuala Lumpur for a couple of days. Along with Robyn and Craig (Gemini) and Jacqui and Kevin (Tintin), we boarded the train from Johor Bahru early one morning for a 6 hour trip north. First class tickets cost us AUS $20 one way and is wasn't a bad trip. Comfy large seats with heaps of leg room, complimentary water and banana bread, good company and lots of laughs - the trip went quickly. Not a lot to see, just palm oil plantation after plantation and the odd station stop along the way. Soon enough we were arriving in KL and had booked rooms at the Pacific Regency Apartments located just across the road from the KL Tower. All upgraded to suites on arrival and the rooms were great, king size beds and marble bathrooms (with bath), pool on the top floor. That evening after drinks poolside for happy hour, it was off to find the hawker stalls. We found a curry house full of locals - always a good sign and the best tasting curries you could imagine. Each morning we started with breakfast at Starbucks, then the days spent exploring.


                            

                             Poolside for 'Happy Hour' at the Pacific Regency Apartments - KL.
                                               Jacqui, Pete, Self, Craig, Robyn and Kevin

                                                        

                   KL Tower at night                                  The base of the 275 stairs to the Batu Caves

The Batu Caves were very impressive, with a humongous gold statue at the entrance. 275 steep stairs to the top and horrid little monkeys along the way throwing coconut husks at people as they passed. You had to watch they didn't make a grab for your handbag, hat or sunglasses. Inside the caves there were blessing ceremonies going on, chanting and lots of incense burning. We had arrived at the caves relatively early morning, just as well. By the time we were leaving, the bus loads of tourists were starting to arrive - it was mobbed. Back to the apartments for a lazy afternoon with local shopping in the myriads of stalls surrounding the hotel. On dusk we headed down to see the Petronas Towers and what impressive architecture they are. With the sun setting quickly, the appearance changed by the minute as their magnificent lighting became apparent. From there it was a walk to Alor Street, famous for its hawker stalls and every type of cuisine you could think of. A 10 mins stroll back to the apartments in the balmy evening and a good nights sleep had by all. The next day we had an afternoon departure back to JB getting back to the boat around 9.00pm. A birthday for Pete to remember.

                                          The fountains at the base of the Petronas Towers

 

 

Happy Birthday drinks for Pete in KL

 

 

Alor Street - famous for its Hawker stalls

 

A few days later it was off to Singapore which as the crow flies is only 2ks from JB, but requires crossings the causeway, exiting Malaysia and entering Singapore with border stops at both ends, passports, customs and immigration so does take an hour. Lunch at Fatty's with my girlfriend Mojca (ex Sailors Bay Dentistry in Sydney) and lots of catching up done. Shopping in the afternoon and staying the night in a small, very basic hotel in Little India. Clean enough but no room to swing that cat !! Up early next morning and off towards Orchard Road to check in at the Royal Plaza on Scott's for a night of luxury. On arrival we could see mum and dad at reception checking in themselves, having just arrived from the overnight flight from Paris. Just so good to see family again. This time the room was lovely, and plenty of room for 10 cats !! The time in Singapore was spent ambling down Orchard Road window shopping - Tiffany's, Cartier, Gucci, Rolex - hence window shopping only. Lots of chatting and catching up and swapping travelling stories. That evening we went for dinner with mum and dad to where Pete and I had eaten 25+ years earlier - a traditional banana leaf curry. Back then, it was a eatery run by the civil service. These days it is known as Sammy's and famous for it's cuisine. The Xmas decorations and lights were all in place along Orchard and Scott's Roads, however they do not turn them on until 1st December so we missed seeing their spectacular colours at night.

 

 

Mum and I having our banana leaf curry at Sammy's

 

Pete and self in the foyer of the Royal Plaza on Scott's - Singapore

 

 

Again it was time to say goodbye but not so sad knowing I will be home in a couple of months. It was the trek back to JB exiting Singapore and re entering Malaysia - the passport could fill very quickly this way. We were setting sail the following day with the Sail Malaysia Rally so there were last minute things to be done on board. A final gala dinner that evening starting with drinks overlooking the marina, then a fantastic meal in the Convention Centre next door.

 

 

             Karen (Tropicali), Janice (Zoa) and self at the pre dinner drinks at Danga Bay Marina.

The other side of Belitung

Sad to be leaving the lovely people of East Belitung, it is a short day trip across to the other side of the  island for the next rally stop. As we approach the anchorage, we are being chased down by another storm. We know now we are really getting into the storm season and it will only get worse for the next month or so. We don't mind so much being at anchor when they hit - we don't like being out to sea. Finally anchored with the storm going around us, it was a pretty spot with huge granite boulders along the shoreline and crops of them off the beach. The locals have illuminated them with floodlights and in the evening they are quite a spectacle.

 

Sunset at West Belitung. Pete and Raymond (Antaros).Not sure which improved -  Pete's French improved or Raymond's English, but they had the love of wine in common.

 

The granite boulders along the shoreline of West Belitung anchorage

Rusty's is the place ashore for the best meals and the man himself who organises water, fuel, transport and anything else you may require. It was also the spot for sundowners each evening. Up the beach were containers of baby turtles where for $5 you could catch one and release it into the ocean to fend for itself - they were so cute. A bus trip into town to the local markets for the final supplies before Singapore. The mid afternoon downpour had the market owners rushing for plastic covers and tarps only to pull them off 30mins later and back to business. They must get so used to doing this. Another gala dinner in a huge no-walled building, traditional dancing and people in costumes - not really sure why.

          

Pete and myself with some of the locals dressed in costume for the gala dinner

 

Traditional dancers from West Belitung Regency

Due to the storm activity, we have decided to do day hops only for the last 150nms to the end. Day 2 saw us watching the latitude count down to 00*00.00 at the equator. We had planned to stop and swim across, but the winds and the current were quite strong so instead as we crossed, we gave Neptune some coins and a nip of Bourbon and thanked him for safe sailing in the Southern Hemisphere and asked the same for the top side. Our official equator party would happen that evening at Kentar Island, .3nm north. It was a great night with 14 of us on the back of Alleykat with a pot luck dinner. We did it is style with bottle of Veuve and Moët saved especially for the occasion.

 

The girls in the water with noodles - Coleen, Pam, Gayle, Self, Jacqui and Cheryl

 

 

Cheryl &  Phil, Kevin, Terry, Bill & Gayle, Jacqui, Self, Jenny, Pam & John

 

 

Jacqui and self about to open a bottle of Moet saved especially

 

 

The closest I could capture the latitude to 00*00 as we crossed the equator

 

Off the next day and headed to the island of Bintan where we had our last rally stop and cleared out of Indonesia. Good strong winds pushed us all the way nearly to the top of the island, anchoring late afternoon near an oil refinery not far short of our intended destination. The next day it was a short hop into Bintan where we anchored off the Nirwana Resort. First thing was to get papers in to Sam and start the clearing out procedure with Customs and Immigration. Then we could sit back and enjoy the pool and the amenities of the resort. Fresh water becomes such a novelty at time at sea. The gala dinner was fabulous, held in the grounds of the resort, the lay out similar to a wedding reception. The food and entertainment was amazing and a great night was had by all. However, it had to be an early evening as we were to be away by 5.00am if we wanted to make it across to Malaysia in one day.

      Carved watermelon as table decorations at our gala dinner at the Nirwana Resort in Bintan

 

A local Katar boat - a gitft from West Belintung regency to East Belitung

 

A snapshot of our AIS screen showing all the boats moving through the channel

First light say many of us heading off towards the west, motoring past Nongsa Point marina and wondering where to cross the Singapore Strait. This is the part I had been dreading, hearing stories of AIS showing 800 - 900 targets at any one given time, some anchored but many underway With Tintin not far behind us, we watched with fascination the lines of ships - bulk cargo carriers, cruise liners, tankers, tug boats, patrol boats, navy craft, yachts, fishing boats and more making their way up or down the channels. And we have to cut across them all!!! We kept heading west until Pete decided it was time and could see a break in the lines, so we went for it. Slotting in behind one then pushing Kittani harder than she has ever gone before we powered on, eased off to fall in behind another liner then full throttle again, till we were finally across the other side and into Singapore waters. Then hugging the coast line and dodging tankers at anchor, we headed up the Straits of Johor making good time and arriving into Danga Bay marina mid afternoon, our home for the next 3 weeks.

                   The afternoon thunderstorm brewing - time to put things in the microwave

So that was it and what a day. Safely crossing the Singapore Strait and the end of Sail Indonesia. About 40 rally yachts are continuing on with us to do Sail Malaysia, others we may see some time next year as many of them will stay around this SE Asia corner for a few years. Such is the life of a cruiser. To sum up the last 3 months, it has been all and more than we expected. Travelling through a 3rd world country has its issues but being patient and smiling goes a long way. Some cruisers have found this difficult, expecting everything to run like  clockwork and when it doesn't, they grumble. For those who kept an open mind, Indonesia has been a remarkable experience and we will definitely return again. The beauty of these islands has made us want to see more. The Indonesian people, who often had so little have given us so much in the way of memories we will never forget. Also the friends we have made on this trip have made the rally for us. The sundowners on the back of boats, the  times of emergencies when we've needed help, the yacht lights in the darkness on those night sails - knowing there has been someone there has been peace of mind for me - the reluctant sailor. To me that's what joining a rally is all about. Thank you Sail Indonesia and Sam for everything,

 

 

 

 

Off to Belitung

It was another 2 night sail north to Belitung. Had we had good winds all the way, we could have probably made it in 2 days, 1 night but as usual any winds we have throughout the day usually drop to nothing as soon as the sun starts to set. We headed off with 4 other boats early around 8.00am and had a good sail for most of that day. Being larger than the others, the winds pushed us ahead and we were soon on our own. It is amazing how through the day you only pass the odd fishing boat, but when it becomes dark, their lights appear everywhere. So it's that constant vigil again through the long night.

Our arrival into Belitung was pre-dawn so again we hung off a short while waiting for the light. It looked like a rather exposed anchorage, which usually means rolly seas, but the option of going across the bar into the harbour was out with the tide only giving 1.9m clearance and that's what we draw. Once ashore, we were guided to the Information Office where we were given vouchers for free diesel, water and beer. We were introduced to Franz and Arthur who were terrific in giving information about the area and nothing we asked was ever too much trouble. Once again we were treated by royalty - it can become addictive. This anchorage has always been a very popular one on the rally and reputed to be the friendliest. They were right about that. Everywhere you go, people say 'hello mister' and the children gather around you asking our names in their broken English.

The beach was littered with Katers - the traditional fishing craft of this area that are also used for racing. They are brightly painted and make quite a picture against a turquoise backdrop of ocean. Races had been planned as part of the celebrations so they were practicing all around us in the anchorage. Ashore we found a great choice of restaurants, not a bad meal to be had. The main town was a 5 mins drive away and each time we started to walk the distance, we were stopped and offered a lift. One trip was by the local ambulance so Pete and I rode in to town sitting on the bed in the back. It would never happen in Oz.

                              

                      The brightly coloured Katers - local fishing/racing boats that filled the beach


                              

               Pete and a few others went for a 'practice run' in a Kater - said they were great fun

Belitung is known as the town of 1001 coffee shops. With a population of 100,000 - you do the math! It was obvious that the area was more affluent than some of our previous stops. We visited open tin mines, batik factories, durian plantations and were invited to the Government Guest House for dinner where we sat cross legged on the floor and had a traditional dinner without cutlery. It is an acquired art !!!!We attended a 'Rainbow Festival' where the costumes were amazing - considering this is 3rd world Indonesia. The colour and enthusiasm that went into each and every float was amazing. Our last night was the gala dinner, held at a restaurant overlooking an inland waterway where the Regent was very hopeful it would in the near future be a marina suitable for rally stops. After quite a few rolly nights anchored off the beach, that news would be music to the ears of any yachties.


    

          Myself and Karen (Tropicali) amongst some of the local kids


              

        Belitung - 1001 coffee shops                Pete sitting back at one of our favourite restaurants


                 

                   Sitting on the floor at the Gov. Guest House for a traditional dinner



   Amazing colours, fabrics and imagination that has gone in to the costumes for the festival

                       
                                                           The spider and his web

On one of our day tours, we stopped at a beach where one of the local kids had a home made motor bike. Its basis was a 44 gallon drum fully motorized, painted rainbow colours with big monkey bars in the front. He headed off into the distance with a roar and 30mins later we came across him in peak hour traffic still going strong. Amazing that he could get away with riding it on the road.

                                      
                                     The home made bike that went like the clappers.

Jacqui, myself, Pete and Kevin with our friend Franz. One of the nicest people you could possibly meet and one that will always remain in our fond memories of Belitung.

Karimun Jawa - Central Java

We completed our 2 night passage arriving at Karimun Jawa just before daylight. We put the boat into neutral, dropped the sails and pottered around for about an hour until there was enough daylight to show us the way through the channel into the anchorage. With Catamini out in front and advising us of the depths, we crept slowly in and dropped the pick in a mill pond of water. There was hardly a ripple and great for getting a few hours of shut eye.

After a few hours sleep, we could see ourselves in a pretty little anchorage with the village and harbour not far away. The shiny gold domes of the mosque dominating above this Muslim town and the mid morning call to prayer may have been what woke us. Our 2 days here was going to be all our own time with nothing scheduled. One of the main issues we, and many other boats have had with the rally, is that there is not enough time allowed to get from one rally venue to the next - a point the Indonesian event co-ordinators don't seem to grasp. The activities for this spot had finished the previous day and out of 85 vessels that started the rally, only 5 were in town for the gala dinner. Very disappointing for the locals and their efforts but it has been this way year after year and still they don't 'get it'.

                              Our arrival into the sleepy township of Karimun Jawa at sunrise

The first day was a rather lazy one as always after a 2 night sail. It was a chance to clean the boat and get things back to normal after the crossing. As there wasn't much in the way of restaurants ashore, we were eating on board that evening. As the sun started to set, the winds dropped off again to nothing and the anchorage once again became like a mill pond. So as the evening call to prayer was heard drifting across the water, Pete fired up the bar-b-que and put on our pork fillet. Ooops....! Probably not the best choice of dinner but hopefully they couldn't smell it. We enjoyed a lovely meal with a bottle of champagne, watching the local fishing boats returning from their day of work. From a distance some of them looked like a crayfish approaching - very basic craft but they scoot along quite quickly.

The next day was to be an adventure. Pete had talked me into getting on the back of a motorcycle and heading off around the island. Actually the road doesn't go all the way around, only so far in each direction, then you head back to town. So with trepidation I climbed on the back of our 1200cc Harley Davidson ...................yeah right !!!! Anyone who knows me knows that I have a paranoia of motorcycles. Actually it was a 50cc automatic Honda 'Scoopy' - and off we went. The roads are so bad on the island that it is impossible to go more than 30kms, and that was on the better parts. Other areas I could have walked faster. And being so sparsely populated, very little in the way of traffic. We meandered along the road stopping off for cold drinks and photo opportunities. And of course when the fuel gauge indicated, a bottle of petrol from a road side stall in a Sprite bottle. Maybe they are starting to get the hang of recycling :-)

 

The view with our yachts anchored in the distance.

 

Filling up on Sprite .........eco friendly

A man made pond out the front of a new resort - filled with Black Tip Reef Sharks

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gili Air and Bali

After the harrowing experience with the mooring, the rest of the time spent at Gili AIr was sheer bliss - the most difficult decisions were which restaurant to choose for lunch and then dinner. The island was a back packers delight with boat loads of them coming and going between there and Lombok, only a stone's throw away. A dirt track ran around the island which was shared by pedestrians, cyclists and pony and trap, the only forms of transport available. There was much construction going on with new buildings popping up everywhere (Indonesian style....). It is obviously becoming a tourist destination and they are rushing to cater to the growing numbers of tourists arriving there.



Paved roadway around the main part of town - after that it becomes dirt.

 

Pony and trap - the only form of transport other than bicycle

 

    
  Our view from 'Sundowners' on the beach

 

 Building made entirely from Bamboo

Pete looking relaxed after a hard day on the boat......yeah right!

 

The beachfront restaurants - so many to choose from !

 

 

After 4 days there, it was time to up anchor and head for Bali. We had good winds coning out of Gili Air across the strait but no sooner were we in the lee of Bali, it was back to motoring. A 3.00am start, our little convoy of 4 boats soon met up with others en route and mid afternoon 8 of us arrived at Lovina Beach to join 30 rally yachts already there. This was the main stop to renew our visas which we knew would take a few days to process, so we had expected the anchorage to be busy. Locals in their spider boats placed themselves on the edge of the reef at the entrance to the anchorage guiding us into safe water. This boat then became our contact for fuel, water, laundry etc. After dropping anchor, we went ashore and gave our passports to Sam to get the ball rolling for the visa extensions. The smell of incense everywhere was truly Balinese, along with the offerings of food and flowers at the front step of each house or shop.  "Looking, looking .... Come look my shop" "You want massaaage.......?" "Transport - you want taxi?" It is so quintessential Bali.

The next day Pete decided to surprise me with an overnight stay at the Puri Mangga Villas, about 10 mins drive from the anchorage. Along with our friends Robyn and Craig from Gemini, we packed our overnight bags and headed up into the mountains. The resort was set amongst rice paddies, though being the dry season they were not under plantings. The rooms were spacious, the queen size bed (hm ........luxury after my single bed) was covered with the most beautiful frangipanis, the colour of which I have never seen before. An outdoor pebble shower completed each villa. One night was not going to be enough. The view from the infinity pool was back over the anchorage and out to sea, breathtakingly beautiful. After checking in, it was straight down to the pool to swim in fresh water - what a novelty. The afternoon was spent lazying around, catching up on emails where we discovered our darling grand daughter Taylah had taken her first steps. Soon it was time for dinner - a lovely 3 course meal accompanied with 2 bottles of champagne (which we supplied - they did not mind, nor did they charge us corkage) for AUS $22 per head. A wonderful nights sleep in a big bed, a scrumptious breakfast the next morning and then back to the pool until a lunchtime checkout where the resort car offered to drive us back to the anchorage. The whole 24 hours was sheer bliss - I could have stayed a week easily.

 

I have never seen such lovely coloured Frangipani before

 

Relaxing in the spa at Puri Mangga with our friends Robyn and Craig (Gemini)

Lovina was a lot of fun with a great many of the rally boats anchored. Good to catch up with people that we haven't seen for a few weeks and swap stories over a COLD Bintan or two. The only negative comment about Lovina was the late evening entertainment along the beach. Local singing from the festival clashed with the disco music coming from the hotel and that continued on sometimes until 2.00am in the morning. Someone needed to tell them us sailors need our sleep!!!


 The next leg along the top of Java to the island of Karimunjawa was a long one - some 260nm. At Lovina we split from Tintin who were heading north to Borneo to see the Orangutans (we plan to see them next year on the way back). We headed off making our way west knowing it was about 60 hours of sailing ahead. Locating an anchorage from Totem's notes, we did stop for the first night at Gili Yang and had a reasonable sleep. Up early next morning we met up with Catamini who had left Lovina later on the day we departed and kept company with her for the rest of the sail. It is comforting to have another boat along the way, to chat with on the VHF and see their lights nearby in the dark of night. Night sailing in Indonesian waters needs constant vigilance - along with Radar and AIS, you need MK1 - EYEBALL! Many boats have no lights, some only turn them on when you get close - a big surprise and then there are the unlit FADs (Fish Attracting Devices) .......... It is exhausting and you are always glad to see the sunrise where you can see things more easily. The days are therefore spent catching up on the sleep that you didn't get at night. First night out from Gili Yang just on sunset we hit some solid bamboo poles sticking vertically out of the sea. There were  4 of them lashed together and obviously attached firmly underwater, though to what we have no idea - we were in 65ms of sea. They scrapped down the side of the boat making a horrible noise and catching us off guard. Heaven knows what damage they could do to a catamaran if they hit in the centre :-(