Satun Boat Yard

Well, who would've thought that a few weeks could go past so quickly. After all, we've only just posted the previous blog dated from middle of Feb..but here we are in Satun Boatyard.

We were delayed getting into the yard by 2 days as the only cradle available for us was occupied by a boat catching up on the last minute jobs. Not too much of an issue except that we had planned of emptying Kittani of most of the accumulated treasures of the last few years before heading off to Aus to visit family on the 4th March. This gave us 2 days to get everything ready. Thankfully we had hired a container so Cath and I spent most of the time doing numerous trips up and down ladders storing 'stuff'. This was essentially all of the contents of the boat stored above bilge level, so a remarkable amount of things made their way to the surface accompanied by " I wondered where that was!". Amazing how you can lose things in 47 feet!

The yard is large and the only constant seems to be the yachties who seem to stay from between a few weeks to 2 1/2 years, where as the fishing boats get hauled one night and dropped back in the water in a couple of days after having major surgery..with a chainsaw!

Birds nest BBQ

 Saloon

 

 Work commenced in the forward cabin

 Setting up the pillars for the tent (concrete in an old tyre)

 

 One down, one to go. A bit stressful when nobody speaks English

 A quick whistle and 14 yard boys turn up to move the mast and then disappear

 

 

 Kittani's home for the next few weeks

 No OH&S here

The picture doesn't show its true size..it's big!

 

 Forward Cabin under reconstruction

 Starboard cap rail demolished

 The 'old' Kittani starting to fade away

 Final sanding before sealing

 

Hull stripped back to the gel coat (above and below the water line)

2 coats of Jotunmastic (epoxy) to be applied. Rolled below and sprayed above waterline

 

This stage is 4 weeks out of the water, but 2 weeks of work. Getting there...but not sure when.

 

South to satun

After a couple of days in Ao Chalong with the wind seeming to increase by the day, we headed across to the more sheltered bay of Panwah Beach. There are a couple of restaurants ashore but not much else, much quieter than Chalong Bay and the tourists. The weather seems to be getting warmer by the week as we approach the change in seasons, and when the breeze drops to nothing, the heat seems to intensify. One afternoon we headed into the large weekend Phuket markets with Lawrie and Karen (Tropicali) and meandered up and down the aisles of clothing and food stalls for hours. They are on the same scale as the Chatachuk markets in Bangkok and you could spend hours and hours wandering around and never find the same spot twice. 
The time is getting nearer to our date for lifting out of the water so we must bid farewell to Phuket and start making our way south towards Langkawi and our destination of Satun on the Thailand/Malaysia border. This is where we will leave the boat on the hard stand and head back to Oz to see family. It has been nearly a year and that's too long for me, I am counting down the number of sleeps until we go.
Our first nights stop is Ko Racha Yai, a sheltered bay on the NW corner of the island. On arrival we can see the lovely white sandy beach onshore, unfortunately covered with the obligatory beach umbrellas and sun lounges, and the fast tourists boats lined up wall to wall. We will just wait until 5.00pm when they will have all left before we venture ashore. 

 

 

 

Ashore for dinner and a walk along the softest sand that we have felt in a long time. The 'Racha Resort' which looked quite impressive from the boat is actually spectacular up close - a 5 star property. What a beautiful place for a holiday, though I think if I were paying those prices, I would not appreciate 500 day trippers arriving early morning and staying until dusk invading my privacy. 

Next nights stop is Ko Rok Nok and this is picture postcard material. We dropped the anchor in the channel between the two islands, and the view was over turquoise waters and white beaches and only a couple of other boats in sight. Paradise !! The sunset was amazing as always and we sat upstairs having dinner and marvelling at our surroundings. It is managed by National Parks and therefore a fee to pay to stay. Not cheap, (400 TB per person and 100 TB for the boat = AUS$30 but will cover for up to 5 days stay) Rich if you were only planning an overnight anchorage so maybe we will stay an extra day to get our monies worth - and the snorkelling is meant to be quite good. 

 

 

A broken nights sleep with the anchor alarm going off every couple of hours as we pulled up on the chain to the extent our scope with the tide and wind, that coupled with a local Thai fishing boat that had anchored close to us and drifted within 5 meters at one point, only to all be awoken by us blasting them with an air horn to say "too close, too close". They moved on but you don't really sleep soundly after incidents like that. The hope is to sleep in in the morning.
Our morning peace was broken by the arrival of a fast speed boat full of tourists, both by the noise of the engines and the wake that they create as they zoom past our bow. I am sure they think it is great fun to see if they can roll the yachties out of bed by the wash they create ....ha ha !! And then they came, 10 in total over the next half hour and once again were lined up along the beach. I guess everyone wants a piece of this paradise. Late morning one of the public moorings had become available so we up anchored and moved to the spot. Upon diving it looked to be secure and sturdy and would give us more peace of mind and a better nights sleep than the previous night. 
We spent the day snorkelling and again the fish life was impressive. The water is probably the clearest we have come across yet, so this place has to rank above the Surins islands for us. By late afternoon the speed boats had all departed and the place was peaceful once again. Ashore for dinner to the only restaurant catering for the campers, chicken in ginger and chicken in garlic and vegetables with steamed rice and two beers for 400 TB (AUS$13) - hard to beat. 

So it's away from here in the morning and south to Ko Lipe.
We thought Ko Phayam was our pick of the spots so far, that was until we found Ko Lipe. Meeting up with Totem coming from another direction, we both dropped anchor on the north side of Ko Lipe, the smallest of the main islands in the Butang group. Wow, what a place. As beautiful as Ko Phayam but a bit more happening. Tourism is further advanced here but thankfully the new accommodation has been built in the timber bungalow style and quite in keeping with the setting of the island. The sandy beaches were once again the finest and whitest of grains, the waters aqua turquoise blue and the vegetation lush and green. In the distance we could make out the island of Tarantoa, our mid way point from here to Satun on the mainland. A couple of small restaurants on the beach and our meeting point for sundowners - the Boom Boom Bar. Before that, we followed the dirt road across to the other side of the island, the arrival point for all tourists. This was definitely the busy side with 'long tails' filling the beach and wall to wall cafés, souvenir, dive shops, restaurants and massage salons on shore. Lots of backpackers coming and going - reminded us of Gili Air but maybe a bit funkier. This would be worth revisiting tomorrow. Back across to our side, we settled in to the bar to watch the sun go down behind our boats, the background music was a reggae beat to Pink Floyd's words and music - rather cool !!

 

Interesting neighbours ....do you move from one to the next?

 

 

 

The next day Behan and I headed back into town for a pedicure, what should only have been a 15 minute stroll. One dirt track looks much like the next one and after wandered around for 3/4 hour and still finding ourselves in the midst of local dwellings, we got a 'taxi' for 100TB ($3) who dropped us right in the main part of town. Now we know where all the old golf buggies from Japanese golf courses end up- they are pensioned off to Ko Lipe as taxis. We then settled in for some pampering and enjoyed an hours pedicure and came out with the best looking toes around. Met the guys for lunch then back to the boat for an afternoon siesta before gathering for sundowners again.

 

 

 

To the Surin Islands

With reluctance we departed Ko Phayam and made our way south –west skirting through the bottom of Burmese waters, keeping an open eye for any official looking craft that may admonish us for trespassing without permission. Some say they are tolerant of yachties crossing through their waters as it is a direct line from Ko Phayam to the Surins. Either way, we were pleased  when we exited the area without incident.

The Surins are reported to have some of the clearest waters to be found, and the snorkelling worthwhile, so we are looking forward to getting back to some water sports. Coming around the north of the islands, we dropped the anchor in a sheltered bay on the NW corner. All we could see looking to the beach was myriads of tents – row upon row nestled amongst the trees. On tendering ashore, this was confirmed as the only accommodation on the island with a large centrally located canteen style restaurant catering to the campers and visitors alike. The beach came out quite a distance from the shore meaning any visits would need to be timed with the tides. Snorkelling was foremost on the activity list so on with the gear and into the water.  

As throughout Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand, there seems to be ‘sea-lice/jelly-fish’ wherever you go and they can make it unpleasant to stay in the water any length of time. I feel the bites but don’t really react to them. However Pete not only feels them, they come up in obvious bites and burn and itch for days.  In desperation he opted to wear some heavy black tights of mine (ex Sydney Winter fashion) and this did manage to reduce the number of bites but increased the number of ribald comments from the others. Stinger suits are now definitely on my shopping list for Oz.

 

One of the local fishing boats lit up like a Xmas tree at night - check out the bulbs !

 

Ashore in the Surins for lunch - a lovely backdrop for a photo

 

Pete picking up a friendly hermit crab - actually he wasn't that friendly.

 The coral was reasonable, only patches of good colour here and there but surprisingly the fish life was abundant. We chased Octopi (plural of octopus??), saw Lion fish, little crayfish, moray eels as well as many families of Nemo. Angel fish, grouper, puffer fish and many more that we could not identify. Some looked like they would fit nicely into a pan sautéed in butter and herbs, however this island group is National Marine Park so no go there. All the photos are taken by Behan as she could free dive to far greater depths than I could. The order of the days had become breakfast, snorkelling, lunch, snorkelling, sundowners, dinner and bed.
 

 

One of the octopus pair that we followed

 

Shells lying on the sea floor

 

Lots of anenomes with clownfish of many colours 

 

A very reluctant cray to leave his home

 

We named this the 'tweety bird' fish

 

Always impressive Lion fish

3 nights spent in that bay then we up anchored and went around to the other side of the island. This was another beautiful bay with the snorkelling reached by swimming off the back of the boats. Each evening sundowners was on a different boat, some nights would also include ‘pot luck’ dinners, some evenings drinks went so late that dinner was forgotten altogether. We did manage to fit in some card nights with Totem, always a fun time with the ongoing ‘battles’ against Kittani. These nights  had originated in Sydney and after nearly 18months absence, the rivalry is still alive and kicking.

One afternoon a tender load of us girls headed across to a local Moken village with bags of balloons, exercise books and pencils, clothing and various craft items as donations. The Moken or Chao Ley (people of the sea) are often know as 'Sea Gypsies' and they live off the flora and fauna found in the oceans. The village houses are built high on poles and this village has been rebuilt by the Government since the Tsunami. We arrived just as school was getting out and managed to track down the teacher who had  a little English. She gave us a tour of the village and was very grateful for the gifts for the children.

 

The Moken village - houses built high

 

An old Moken style fishing boat at rest

 

A elder carving a new dugout for the village

 



After another 2 nights here it is time to head off again, back towards the mainland and then south to Phuket. Our first stop back on the mainland was where we had found the LST craft from the war, and decided in the morning we would do a tour of the boat. After climbing up the gangplank, we spent a couple of hours roaming all through the companionways, engine rooms and storage areas, imaging how she must have looked back in her prime. You could just picture the sailors in their uniforms, standing tall as she came into port, whistles blowing. 

 

View taken from the control room of the 'Dodge County'

 

Jeremy and the girls (Nalukai) getting back to the tender with groceries and water

                                          Our anchorage around the corner from the LST

 

Kittani under sail

 

 

North towards the Burmese border

All restocked and ready to go we headed south out of Ao Chalong to the bottom of Phuket and up the other side into Nai Harn for our first overnight stop. A pretty bay, though still a smaller version of the Russian riviera. Deck lounges and umbrellas from one end of the beach to the other - you could hardly see the sand in between. A short dingy ride ashore and tether up to a floating dingy dock, then a clamber over some large rocks to the little restaurant where you paid 100 Thai bart (AUS$3.50) for the stay. Apparently if you buy a drink at their bar, they refund the money. Then a walk along the promenade through myriads of restaurants all vying for your business, as well as the usual mobile street vendors. Our favourite desert vendor amongst them - pancakes with chocolate and banana cooked while you wait. Yum !!
Always a good nights sleep when the bay is sheltered from swell, and it was off early next morning catching up with Totem as they came out of Ao Chalong. That day we managed a full day of pure sailing, without the aid of engine - something we had not done in a while. So good to know you were conserving diesel.

                                     So good to be sailing with our dear friends Totem again

Next stop was a lovely bay just short of the airport - Nai Yang and a great view of planes coming in to land at Phuket airport. Again a multitude of restaurants ashore but most of these seem to be filled with Aussies - what a pleasant change. We headed ashore for dinner meeting up with many boats that have cruised this area for years and happily listened to all their stories. This was a place we will return to again but for now is only an overnight stop until we get to our main destination of Ko Phayam, the most northern stop for us in Thailand. Our fleet of 2 was growing as we joined with Utopia 2 and Honey and made our way north the following day. Our anchorage that evening was  tucked inside an estuary, home to Thai naval vessels as well as many power boats taking tourists for day trips to the Surin and Similan islands. Very busy with comings and goings at the start and end of the day but it settled down after those times. The following evening saw us all again tucked inside the headland of Ko Ra, after opting to head inland further south and meandering north for a couple of hours through waterways past villages and mangroves before dropping the anchor for the night. We past an old (what turned out to be) navy craft moored in the waterways, a strange kind of place to find something like that. With some investigating, Niall (Totem) - a 14 year old history buff discovered it was an LCT named 'Dodd County' and gave us a lesson on its history. He put us both to shame with his knowledge.

 

 

Sundowners on our first evening at Ko Phayam

 

Can't resist yet another sunset shot from the bar

Ko Phayam was a little slice of paradise. We had been told it was what Phuket was like 30 years ago - still untouched by tourism. Anchoring in 4 meters in Buffalo Bay on the NW side of the island, we tucked inside the most northerly part of the bay and decided that this would do us for at least a week if not more. Heading ashore, the resorts were basic thatched huts as were the bars and restaurants. No cars on the island, motorcycle, bicycle or foot being the only modes of transport. The beach wrapped right around the bay, scattered here and there with outcrops of rocks and great for long walks - it soon became our daily exercise. The first evening ashore for sundowners, we could see the islands of Burma silhouetted again the setting sun. Out of bounds to sailing yachts at present, though there is talk that next year the government may ease up regulations and open them to cruisers. More sunset photos!!!! A few other evenings were at a bar which can only be described as a cross between 'Pirates of the Caribbean' and 'Lord of the Flies'. It was made out of timbers that looked like they have been floating the oceans for years, finally washed ashore and the structure was adorned with flotsam and jetsam accumulated over time. This was definitely a bar with character !! We have since been advised by a local that the boat bar was entirely build from timbers and debris washed ashore after the tsunami - now a monument to the disaster.

                           Our 'Pirates of the Caribbean' Bar - locally known as the 'Hippy Bar'



                Made from driftwood found after the Tsunami


The days rolled into the next and the time was spent relaxing with books, doing odd jobs aboard here and there or conferring on boat issues and how best to manage or fix them. One day Pete had to make an unexpected trip to Ranong on the mainland, located on the south side of a river - the river being
the border of Burma (it was only 30 mins by speed boat). We were running the generator one evening to charge the batteries when it made a strange sound and started smoking. The small alternator had seized and the fan belt got very hot!  That is never a pleasant experience. That night we ran the main engine to charge the batteries. What were the chances that at this point we blew a fan belt and smoke again filled the engine room. At this point I was thinking I would rather be living anywhere than on a boat. The next day, bearing obtained and fitted along with the fan belt - things were looking good again.

We hired a motorcycle one day and my second only ever ride saw me clutching on for dear life as we made our way down to the pier along the concrete road. Our goal that day was to buy a top-up card and replenish our internet coverage. This is never an easy task when English is not the first language - thank goodness for 'Help Desks' on the phone. We could walk along the only road on the island into 'town' in 30 minutes or only as far as the 'crossroads' for a minimart with fresh fruit and veggies - nothing is very far. Most days would bring a new boat into the anchorage - is it someone we know from our rallies? We are really newcomers to this cruising life, many of the boats around us having been doing this for years and therefore crossing paths time and again with each other. Gemini and Kailani arrived a couple of days ago but opted to anchor in Long Bay on the other side of the headland. Its the closest we have come to knowing another boat.

                                                                The view at Long Beach - Does this look like a kangaroo? 

 

Jamie and Behan (Totem) with Pete

 

                                   Yet another glorious sunset with Kittani in the foreground

 

The days here are coming to an end and after 2 plus weeks, we have decided to head off tomorrow to the Surin islands - 30nms so only a days sail. Some boats have been here in the anchorage for a month and I can see why that would be possible. We have had up to 17 anchored at one point, the locals say the most they have ever seen. We have eaten ashore nearly every night, our favourite restaurants being Papaya (best Penang curry), Mr Gao (great Pad Thai) and Baan Klong Kleng for overall ambience. We will miss our daily walks along the beach, though the Surin islands are reported to have the best waters for swimming and snorkelling so shall have to that for exercise. So its lunch ashore today with Gemini before heading off on the morning to our next destination.